Sow These in June (Don't Miss Out)

Early summer is a busy time in the garden, but right now we still have a short window to get ahead. There are eight must-sow crops to sow in June that love a warm start and take off fast – you can be picking some of them in a matter of weeks – but only if you plant them before it’s too late…

Sprouting Broccoli

Let’s kick things off with a crop that’ll make you feel like an absolute gardening genius next spring: sprouting broccoli. This winter-hardy brassica is one of those crops that requires a bit of patience – we’re talking eight to ten months from sowing to harvest – but when those tender purple spears start appearing in early spring, at a time when there’s precious little else to harvest, trust me – it’s so worth the wait!

I start my sprouting broccoli in plug trays so I can keep them better protected from slugs and those persistent pigeons, and to give them a head start while the ground they’ll be planted into are still occupied by other crops. Sow a couple of seeds per plug, about half an inch (1cm) deep, and if both germinated just remove the weaker of the two.

The young plants will be ready to transplant in around six weeks, and they’ll need plenty of space – about 2 feet (60cm) apart in both directions. They’ll grow into substantial plants, so don’t be tempted to crowd them.

Through summer and autumn your sprouting broccoli will grow steadily, building up strong root systems and sturdy stems. They’re tough plants and will sail through winter. They’ll need protecting from pigeons, who will absolutely tear the plants to shreds, but otherwise they’re very hands-off, and will seem to just sit there quietly for the longest time. You may even wonder if they’re ever going to do anything! But then all that will-they-won’t-they anticipation is rewarded when, all of a sudden in spring, those incredible spears just seem to appear almost overnight, exactly when you’re craving fresh garden produce and there’s little else to pick.

If you like ‘normal’ summer broccoli, you’ll absolutely love sprouting broccoli – it’s just divine steamed or perhaps laid over puff pastry with other good stuff such as leeks and sausage for a delicious supper.

Swede

Next up, a root vegetable that’s criminally underrated: swede, rutabaga to our North American friends, or neeps to the Scots! These golden-fleshed roots are one of the true heroes of the winter kitchen: mashed with butter and loads of spicy white pepper, roasted until caramelised, or thrown into stews where they soak up all those rich, savoury flavours. Gorgeous I tell you!

Now here’s the thing – swede actually wants to be sown at this time of year. Start them too early in spring and plants can bolt (go to seed), but sow now and they’ll grow steadily through summer, sweetening up beautifully as cooler autumn weather arrives. The cold concentrates their sugars, making them even more delicious.

Swedes, like many root crops, prefer not to be transplanted. Make a shallow drill, about half an inch (1cm) deep, where you plan to grow them. Sow the small but easy to handle seeds thinly along the row, aiming to drop one seed every inch or so. Don’t worry about being too precise – we can always thin them later. Space additional rows about a foot (30cm) apart. Cover them back over with soil, and water them gently. They’ll germinate within a week or so in warm summer soil.

Once the seedlings are up and growing strongly, thin them gradually until they are about 9in (23cm) apart. This gives each root the space it will need to swell properly, as these are chunky old things! Keep them watered during dry spells, and relatively weed-free, and by autumn you’ll have a crop that’ll see you through until spring.

Kale

Like swede, some leafy greens can also improve in taste after frost, including my absolute favourite: kale. Those icy temperatures break down the starches in the leaves and convert them to sugars, giving you sweeter, more tender greens just when you need them most – right through the winter and, crucially, the ‘hungry gap’ of early spring.

Now is the perfect time to start kale for a long autumn and winter (and spring) harvest. Sowing into plug trays rather than directly outside gives more control over the young seedlings and protects them from slugs while they’re still small and vulnerable.

Sow two seeds per plug, then cover them over lightly and water in. Kale germinates quickly in the warmth of early summer – usually within a week – and the seedlings grow fast too. If you get more than one seedling in each plug, just remove the excess. After four to five weeks they should be ready to plant out 18 inches (45cm) apart – just when earlier crops like potatoes or broad beans will be done, making kale the perfect follow-on crop.

Kale loves a spot in full sun or light shade, and if you can, plant into ground that’s been enriched with plenty of garden compost because, like all brassicas, kale appreciates a rich, fertile soil.

The key to a long harvest is to pick regularly, always taking the lower, outer leaves first and leaving the crown in the middle and towards the top to continue to produce. Do this and a few plants will become like old friends, keeping you in greens for months and giving exceptional value for the space they occupy!

Herbs – Summer Savory and Chives

Now for a pair of herbs that are absolute workhorses in the kitchen: summer savory and chives.

Summer savory is the herb that bean lovers really need to know about. In fact, in German it’s literally called Bohnenkraut, or ‘bean herb’, because it pairs so perfectly with beans of every kin! (And if you haven’t sown any beans yet this season, don’t worry, that’s next on our seed-sowing menu – we’ll be sowing a fast-growing type that’ll get you a super-quick harvest.)

Summer savory has this wonderfully peppery, slightly thyme-like flavour that lifts bean dishes beautifully. And unlike its cousin winter savory, this one’s quite mild and delicate. It’s an annual that germinates and grows quickly in warm conditions, making it perfect for an early summer sowing.

Sprinkle the tiny seeds across the surface of moistened potting mix, and then cover them with just the faintest layer, barely enough to hide them from view. Keep them warm and moist, and they’ll be up within a couple of weeks.

Once the seedlings are a few inches tall, plant them out or pot them on, then start harvesting the tips regularly to encourage bushy growth. They’ll produce right through summer and well into autumn too, perfectly matching the pace of your beans.

And then there’s chives – surely one of the most useful herbs of all! That gentle onion flavour works with eggs, potatoes, salads, soups… honestly, I use chives almost daily through summer. And the flowers are edible too – they’re stunning scattered over a salad.

Chive seeds can be a little slow to germinate, so be patient. Sow a pinch of seeds into a small pot, covering them lightly with more potting mix, and keep them somewhere warm and bright. Within about three to four weeks, you’ll have tufts of grass-like seedlings ready to plant into the ground or in containers.

Once established, chives are perennial, which means they will come back year after year. You can divide clumps to spread them around the garden, making more chive clumps for free – much quicker and easier than having to re-sow every time. Happy days!

Dwarf Beans

Climbing beans are highly productive, but if you want something even quicker and easier to grow, dwarf beans are the answer. These compact plants don’t need any supports, and by sowing into warm soil you’ll get super-speedy germination and growth. In fact, from an early summer sowing you could be picking beans in as little as eight weeks. Eight weeks!

You can sow directly into the soil once the weather has properly warmed up. Dwarf beans absolutely hate cold, wet conditions, but in the warmth they’ll rocket away. Create 2in (5cm) deep drills, spaced around 14in (35cm) apart, and sow one bean seed every 4in (10cm) apart within the row. With larger seeds like this it’s very easy just to place each one individually, and the whole process feels just so wholesome! Cover them over, firm the soil gently with the back of the rake, and give them a good water. In warm soil they’ll be up within a week or so.

The key with these beans, just like their climbing cousins, is to keep picking so they keep producing. Many varieties are dual-purpose beans – you can harvest it fresh and young for tender green beans, or just leave it to mature and dry on the plant to then shell for stunning dry beans that are ideal in winter casseroles.

These compact beans are a great follow-on crop to sneak in here and there wherever there’s space all spring and summer – a great way to ensure a steady supply.

Beetroot

I sowed some beetroot back in late winter for an early crop, and they’re coming along beautifully. But the thing is, early summer is actually ideal for a main sowing that will give deep red roots to lift throughout autumn and even into winter. The warmer soil means faster germination and quicker growth, and you avoid that early-season risk of bolting that can catch out spring sowings.

I multisow my beetroot seeds into plugs, roughly four seeds into each. Each ‘seed’ is actually a cluster of seeds, so you might get several seedlings popping up in each plug. That’s perfect because we’re going to plant these out in clumps – four to eight seedlings in each – and then harvest the biggest roots first, leaving the smaller ones to grow on. It’s a space-saving trick that extends the harvest window beautifully.

The seedlings will be ready to transplant into your beds after about three weeks, with each cluster planted roughly a foot (30cm) apart each way. Keep beetroot well-watered in hot weather, because inconsistent watering can make roots tough and woody. All being well, you’ll be pulling up gorgeous, earthy roots within about ten weeks.

Spinach

Okay, I know what you’re thinking: spinach in summer – isn’t that just asking for trouble? The heat and dry weather will surely cause it to bolt! And, yes, spinach can be a bit temperamental in warm weather. But here’s the secret: choose heat-tolerant varieties, find a slightly shadier spot to grow them and, crucially, keep plants well-watered. Do this and you can absolutely enjoy fresh spinach through the summer too.

Sow couple of seeds per plug, and plant them out into a spot that gets a little afternoon shade. This keeps the soil cooler and reduces that tendency to bolt.

The other trick is to harvest young. Baby spinach leaves are incredibly tender, almost sweet, and by picking little and often you’re keeping the plants in productive mode rather than letting them think about flowering.

In hot weather, spinach really appreciates consistent moisture. Let the soil dry out and you’ll see those seed stalks shooting up almost overnight, so keep that watering can handy! Mulch around plants with grass clippings to help conserve moisture and keep roots cool.

If you’re in a hot climate, you might want to consider heat-tolerant alternatives to true spinach, including Malabar spinach, New Zealand spinach and amaranth, which we featured in our recent video on protein-packed picks.

Well, that little lot should keep your green fingers and thumbs busy! And if you’d like help working out exactly when to sow and plant where you are, give our Garden Planner a try. It uses data from your nearest weather station to produce a sowing and planting schedule unique to you, and our 7 day trial is completely free!

Plants Related to this Article

Beetroot Grow Guide

Broccoli (Sprouting) Grow Guide

Chives Grow Guide